Texto en español, aqui
“My relationships with producers or photographers, these
are relationships that took years.”
— Alexander McQueen —
“What I like about photographs is that they capture a
moment that’s gone forever, impossible to reproduce.”
— Karl Lagerfeld —
Since I’m
not like many people in the industry, always avidly looking for the latest news
on designers and their collections, there are things that take me by surprise
sometimes. My thing is more on the photographic side, and yet, I’m not in one
of those times of relentless searching in order to get to know new
photographers and their works.
In other
words: since I keep myself uninformed, or better yet, I’ve been more focused on
text than images lately, there are things that take me aback, for instance: the
pictures taken at the very polemic Channel’s runway on a supermarket. I must
confess that after seeing its first images on the World Wide Web, I thought
they belonged to their latest advertising campaign and not their latest
runway. That’s not all, though: I must also confess that I loved those shoots
from that very moment. (I’ve loved them so much that even though the event took
place weeks ago and is no longer news worth telling, I think reflecting on it
is still valid).
After
realizing what the pictures were about, my admiration stirred towards a new
kind: it is one of the best settings in runaways that I have seen lately, and I
don’t mean budget-wise, I mean, it is almost unlimited and it shows not only in
the wonderful way the shelves were stocked, but mostly on how they worked out
the room; it allowed photographers and cameramen to take shots that were so
good that were, in more than one occasion actually, better than those we get to
see in different campaigns for fashion brands.
I must
clarify that I’m not saying that runway pictures should be used as campaign
pictures, although after seeing the quality of some of them, it doesn’t sound
like a bad idea.
The point
here for me, is to reflect on the commitment some of the organizers of a
runway have in terms of increasing the possibilities for photographers and
cameramen of making good images. I think, without a doubt, a runway is an
event for the press and the main buyers. However, and this is something not
everybody understands, a runaway is not only for the benefit of public
relations with the media moguls sitting on the first row; it is also of great
importance for the communication that one hopes to achieve. The quality of the photographs
taken will be accompanied by the opinions of the fashion editors attending the
event. We talked about something similar in a different entry on the blog: the
low quality in photographs taken from the first row during a runway. (Link)
I’m sure there
are events that will be advertised no matter the quality of the material they
are launching. However, not all events qualify to be the exception; and, in
many ways, the players within such runaway production will be, without a doubt,
hoping to be outstanding and use the media on their favor; and yet, they will
need great quality photographs of their event so that it is indeed superior to
the media.
One thing is
certain; a unique event developed from its early stages in a space and with a
production like Channel and other major fashion houses have done differs from
event in which everything happens in the same runway, an example of those
would be our own runways in Colombiamoda.
Bottom line,
the reflection is the same and it’s not new to this blog: sometimes I believe,
and I have some first hand information on it by being around such events occasionally,
that the runway organizers work under the logic that every person on the press
booth is obliged to take the pictures and editors are to publish them as if
there weren’t any technical and aesthetic standards to uphold and offer. I
usually tell my students on this matter that it’s not the same being chosen by
the local media for whom an event is mandatory news as it is being part of the
international press, which has the entire world with material available to
cover.
To finish, I
leave for you, images
from another runway, this one from Alexander McQueen F/W 2014 in which the
photographs could also be used as a campaign image. At least they are better
built than other constructed for this end.
At the end,
I don’t it is a coincidence: both brands have an evident culture and great
knowledge of how a photographic image works.
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